An electric vehicle''s largest, most important and most expensive component is its high-voltage battery pack. Many newer bespoke EVs are built around their battery pack, and some have even ...
The voltages on the batteries varied from 1.41V for battery #6 after five hours of charging, to 1.47V for battery #3 after eight hours of charging. The pack was then charged for 14+ hours, also at a constant current of 110 mA. The finished pack measured 8.45V after a three-hour rest just before the test.
Each of the batteries in each pack are 1.37V, but when they are connected, the voltage is shown at zero. I took the batteries in one battery pack apart after I measured this and tested each one separately, and they each read 1.37V, but when I test them when they are connected via the metal ribbon, they read 0v.
Another common reason behind a car battery having volts but no amps are bad contact somewhere between the rectifier and the load of the battery. You need to between the load and the anode bar to know if this is the case. If you see a drop in voltage when testing it, you can confirm that there’s a bad connection.
The finished pack measured 8.45V after a three-hour rest just before the test. This means that all the batteries were about 1.41V, just like the Yaesu FT-209 battery pack batteries. Note: This pack was labeled on the curve as Ni-MH but the PB-13 pack is, in fact, a Ni-CD pack.
Some batteries are equipped with a solid-state switch that is normally in the “off” position and no voltage is present at the battery terminals. Connecting the switch terminal to ground or pulling it up often turns the battery on. If this does not work, the pack may need a code for activation.
These were all AA NiCd batteries soldered together as a pack of six or eight cells, thus making 7.2 or 9.6 volt battery packs. The most common failure that I noticed was that one (or more) of the individual cells was much weaker than all the others.